Monday, October 6, 2008

SIGHT SEEING

The last week has been more active and been getting about more in the "Cidade Maravilhosa".

First trip on the Metro took us to Estacoa Uruguiai and stepped out into the noise and bustle of hundreds of tiny shops which give the impression of not having changed for a 100 years. This gives a chaotic contrast with the mass of huge skyscrapers in a bewildering array of styles from Classic Government type buildings to Modernistic Dark Glass towers. Interspersed with very traditional churches and impressive older buildings. We went to see an art exhibition and take tea in the old Bank of Brazil, - now a cultural centre. Then down to an old Palace for more tea and and exhibition on architectural use of tiles.

On Saturday shopping in Copacabana gave a contrast to the city centre with a 6 km crescent of beach, - seen in relaxed style from the old Fort at the west end of the beach. Then we experienced the chaos of the main Copacabana thoroughfares running parallel to the beach inland.

A few days later we took a trip on the ferry to Niterói and got a taxi to see the Niterói Contemporary Art Museum. This was designed by Oscar Niemeyer who is famous in Brazil for designing the new city of Brasilia, for being a communist (he lived out of the country for 21 years until the military dictotorship ended in 1985) and for continuing to work even though he is now 101. Apparently he still goes to his office in Ipanema every day. He designed the art gallery in Niteroy in 1996 when he was 89 years old!

The building sits on a headland giving an amazing view of the Guanabara Bay and the city of Rio de Janeiro.

Fascimile online magazine says, "Thinking big," then-mayor Jorge Roberto Silveira later wrote, "we immediately opted for Oscar Niemeyer." After visiting the dramatic site, the architect quickly sketched out the design at a nearby restaurant. "I asked the waiter for a few sheets of paper," Silveira continued. "He was hurrying back with a few message slips when another waiter intercepted him and muttered, 'Bring bigger paper. This is the man who designed Brasília.' "

The Metro Bus stops outside the flat in Leblon. 2R60 includes the bus to the Metro station at Siqueira Campos and then as far as you like in the air conditioned Metro. The station at Botafogo is the nearest to the Sugar Loaf mountain and a reasonable walk from the station to Praia Vermilho. Very cheap lunch in the naval "pay by the kilo" cafeteiria and a view of the mountain. There is a telepherique to the top but I have been thinking of going back to walk up. It turns out to be a very safe area because it is surrounded by military bases. Most of the hills in Rio or not safe places because the slums are usually built on the steep slopes of the hills where no-one else wants to build a house. But the Pao de Asucar doesn't have any and the prescence of Military Guards is meant to keep the place safer.

Getting up early on Saturday, I ventured on one of the ordinary buses for the first time. Taking the 583 cicular bus that goes to Cosme Velho via Copacabana and Botafogo and then back to Leblon via Lagoa, Jardim Botanico and Gaviea. The bus depot at Cosme Velho is just up the hill from the railway that goes up Corcovado to see the stature of Cristo Redentor. The statue is supposed to be one of the 8 modern wonders of the world and I guess it would be difficult to visit Brazil, nevermind Rio, without going to see it. At the top there is a great view looking down on the Pao de Asucar and all of Rio de Janeiro.

It is difficult to get a good shot of the statue itself without a viewfinder and there are crowds of people about who are also trying to get a photo, - usually accompanied by an impression of the statue. Attached is the best shot out of five, - only the tips of the fingers on his right hand missing.


A typical tourist pose on top of the Corcovado on the left.

Next on the sight seeing list is a visit to Santa Teresa and then if it is possible to get out of town and go to one of the mountain areas like Petropolis or Teresopilis.


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