Leblon - density

After the confusion of the sun being in the North and going around the wrong way. The next oddity is the difference that the density of housing makes.

The holiday apartment is on the 14th floor of a 16 story block with 6 flats on each floor so I guess there might be 200 people living in this block. In the lift most people nod and say hello, -but not always!

Once out of the front door, after it has been opened by the friendly security guard, there is a secure area with 5 other blocks. I guess shared with a population of 1000. Now people don't say hello and he security guards at the shared entrance seldom look at you as they open the gate.

Once on the streets of Leblon, about a bit over a square kilometer with over 50,000, . In com- a sense of anonymity comes at once. Winchester has a similar number of people but the area is about 20 square kilometers and there is never the same sense of anonymity.

Copacabana has the same impression but exagerrated considerably. In parts the population density is supposed to be over 150,000 per square kilometer.

View Larger Map

Leblon is sandwiched between the Lagoon and the sea and most houses are within a kilometer of the beach. So anyone going for a walk seems to head for the beach and even at 8am on Saturday the beach is full of people walking and enjoying the sunshine. I suppose if every person who was walking their dog in Winchester chose the same street to do it then there would probably be about the same number.

The population of Brazil is 190 million and Rio is the 2nd city with 7,050,472. Leblon has apparently got the highest land prices of anywhere in Brazil!

Rain

First thing this morning it was raining although still quite warm at 20 C
It was a fairly light shower but had the impact of keeping away nearly all the joggers and walkers who usually fill the pavement and cycleway on the beach. (note photo is taken on a sunday when they close one lane on the road).

Still working out which is the best Kiosk to buy my coconut in but even this morning when I was the only person at any stall I still got not attention from the behind the bar.

In the afternoon we got the metro bus and Metro on Line 1 to Uruguainana and went to the wholesale shopping area between there and Carioca station. Martin had to buy some material to re-upholster the dining table chairs and a part for the curtain poles for the lounge. Then combined a couple of nice cafes with art exhibitions. One was in the Banco du Brazil building which was very impressive but neither of us particularly liked the work of the artist Paulo Pasta.

In the evening we went for a bottle of wine and a really good pizza in a restaurant in Zona Sul. This is like the local equivalent of Sainsbury. It was odd sitting at a table and then looking up and seeing people with trolleys shopping right in front of us.

Jardim Botânico

Visited the Botanical Gardens not far from Leblon. Lots of spectacular trees from Brazil and around the world. It was like being in Kew Gardens except that they didn't need the large greenhouses. In the bamboo groves, even the light breeze knocked the trunks together and made a lot of noise. I guess the noise would be intense in a high wind.

The mountains around Rio really add to the setting and seem to transform it from being just another city (with fabulous beaches and weather!) into a unique location.

There were not many tourists in the park but it was full of school parties and we seemed to arrive at the cafe at the same time as most of the schools arrived there to eat their picnic lunches. It was really enjoyable sitting there watching them all being so relaxed and happy.

DIY & Learning Portuguese

All the big jobs have been done in the appartment but there are lots of small things to do. Here is Martin putting up a new curtain rail in the bedroom. (the camera has a broken viewfinder).

Visited yet another great cafe, Amazem cafe in Ipanema - unfortunately a bit expensive.

In the evening went to the Jobi which is really nice bar in central Leblon. Martin reckons it is the equivalent of the Coach & Horses in Soho.

Now on the third attempt 3rd different beach side cafe for a coconut drink and the barmen smiled so this could be the regular stop.

Afterwards had my first Portuguese class with Karina. She is 35 and has been teaching portuguese for 15 years, working freelance. It is very tiring, and not very satisfying, working at something that doesn't come easily. Luckily Karina is a good and patient teacher.

Hippie Fair

This is the view when I am on my morning jog looking towards Leblon.

In the afternoon we went to see the Hippy fair a few blocks from the holiday appartment, It takews place each Sunday in the Praca Gen Osorio at the other end of Ipanema. There were mostly stalls of crystals, jewellery, paintings and leather stuff.
Its reminiscent of street markets in London, the same Sunday morning feel only more stalls with fabulous local crystals.

Also a few stalls selling leather bean bags at less than half the price at home. Might look good in the basement at home!

Round the corner was a great wholefood restaurant. You help yourself from the buffet and then pay for the food by weight. As usual everything looked so good it is difficult not to sample too many things and end up with a heaped plate. Favourites so far, - mashed potatoes and rice mixed with broccoli.

Excuse me if I post another link to you tube and the girl from ipanema.

Routine established?

First thing and down to Ipanema beach. It is full of walkers, joggers, bladers and cyclists on the pavement, the cycle track and on one lane of the dual carraigeway which is closed on Sundays. At the Eastern end of the beach, by the Parque Garota, there were about 20 surfers sharing not very good waves. The sea was surprisingly warm but also with a strong rip current which might explain why no-one was in the water without a surfboard.

A refrigerated fresh coconut can be bought for 2 Reals and the cafe worker cuts a base and a hole in the top with 4 deft strokes of a lethal machete. It seems amazing they have all their fingers. A drink of fresh coconut juice is better than a Isotonic drink for quenching the thirst.

There are kiosks every 100 metres and I am determined to find one where the staff smile.

No sign today of the girl from Ipanema!